Road Trip

South Africa by Sidecar

Far from a safari, this open-air drive explores the coastal beauty of Cape Town

A FURRY LITTLE FACE is peeking out at me from some tall grass alongside the road. Behind that face, the Atlantic Ocean is a vast stretch reflecting the sky’s vivid blue.

 

“Don’t encourage him,” warns Tim Clarke, owner of Cape Sidecar Adventures. “Baboons can be aggressive.”

Yes, baboons.

After a 22-hour flight to Johannesburg and a connection to Cape Town, South Africa, it’s time to ride. There will be no

I’m doing this on a 30-year-old CJ750 motorcycle, built for the Chinese Army. It’s their version of a 1938 BMW sidecar, built with pre– World War II specifications. I have the option to drive, ride behind the driver or ride in the sidecar. My vintage helmet and goggles add authenticity to the experience of riding in the sidecar.

People typically visit Africa once in a lifetime, on safari. That’s unfortunate, because there’s so much more to Africa. Cape Town is a sophisticated city with great shopping and restaurants. The Cape Peninsula of South Africa has a wide road with colorful vistas of red rock, monolithic granite, cliff-side homes and pristine white beaches.

At Cape Town International, we head toward the city but turn off to Constantia, one of Cape Town’s wine regions. The beginning of the drive includes checking in at Constantia Uitsig, a 200-year-old wine estate with 16 luxury garden rooms surrounded by vineyards and three awardwinning restaurants.

From Constantia Uitsig, a spectacular coastal and mountain drive starts by heading toward the Cape coastline and the tiny town of Fish Hoek, home to a yacht club. Colorful Hobie Cats and catamarans line the beach. We stop here to stroll along Jager’s Walk, a pathway that runs along the beach, and grab a latte at one of the cafés. We wave goodbye and continue south to Simon’s Town, home to the British Navy from 1814 to 1957.

The town’s main road runs through a picturesque line of classic Dutch Colonial architecture. A stroll through the Simon’s Town Museum—the oldest former residence in town, built in 1777— is recommended.

The nearby settlements of Boulders and Seaforth are next. Enormous whitegranite rocks mark the immaculately clean and sheltered bay of Boulders, where a land-based colony of 2,300 jackass penguins is protected in a national park. Eat the half-pound burger stacked high with fried egg and onion rings at Seaforth Restaurant, and then walk it off at Boulders Beach, a 300-yard stroll from the restaurant. The paved path from Seaforth to the penguin sanctuary is populated by local vendors selling handmade jewelry, wooden wine goblets and handpainted wall art—all inexpensive treats. It’s a short stroll on a tidy boardwalk over the talcum powder–white beach to see black-and-white penguins cavorting in their natural environment and squawking at gawking humans.

From Boulders, the route turns away from the coastline and up into the higher elevation of Red Hill Pass. Dramatic vistas of Simon’s Town are visible at the viewing area at the top. Below, the sheltered False Bay is where the Dutch East India Company made its winter layovers and built homes. It’s postcard pretty, with South African and Dutch Colonial British homes nestled into the greenand- pink hillside above the beach.

As we drive across Red Hill Pass, the route drops down to the water as it heads toward Scarborough and Kommetjie. The wide pavement of M65 runs along the Atlantic, offering unobstructed views of ocean and a feeling of communing with nature. The ocean breeze is gentle and warm.

From the coast, the route turns slightly inland through Sun Valley and starts its climb toward Chapman’s Peak. The road circles the 1,945-foot “Chappie” before moving back toward the ocean. The jagged rock formations plunging to the beach below are part of a billion-year geological history that has a craggy beauty, mottled with color and sharp angles.

Continuing south, the spectacular ocean view changes continually—framed by palm trees, red rock and granite—as we wind along the mountainside road that hugs the ancient rock overlooking the Atlantic. The well-maintained pavement is bordered on the water side by a sturdy cobblestone wall that inspires confidence. Even for those with acrophobia, it’s easy to relax and enjoy the ride.

Entering Hout Bay—a resort town and fishing village known for outstanding rock lobster—we stop off at The Village of Hout Bay for shopping at the clothing and curio shops, and cocktails on the deck at Chapman’s Peak Hotel.

From Hout Bay, we head back into the wine district Constantia, where Southern Cross Drive is dotted with massive iron-gated entrances to elegant Dutch Colonial estates. The Bishopscourt and Constantia suburbs are home to many opulent residences we pass on the way back to Constantia Uitsig. In the estate’s wine room, 90-point African Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon are available.

After rest and celebration, we continue our drive to the nearby Kirstenbosch Botanical Park, then on to the Cape of Good Hope.

But that’s another road trip.

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