Wine in Review

Pour

Swanson Vineyards Alexis Oakville Estate Red Wine, Napa Valley, 2003

AT THE BEGINNING of World War II, Carl A. Swanson——a Swedish immigrant who landed in Omaha, Nebraska, in 1896——had transformed his grocery business into an agricultural empire of poultry farms and creameries, the latter earning him the proud sobriquet of Butter King. His sons Gilbert and Clarke, however, determined the company should live up to its brand name, Swanson Ever Fresh, began to experiment with freezing techniques invented by Clarence Birdseye in the early 1920s——which ultimately led to the introduction of America’s first mass-produced, brand-name pot pie. Then, the accidental purchase of 10 surplus boxcars of turkey prompted the brothers’ decision to sell this excess——sans crust and with gravy and peas——in an aluminum container, thereby immortalizing the Swanson name, which graced the first packages of that all-American novelty, the TV dinner.

Swanson & Sons was sold to the Campbell’s Soup Company in 1955, and——happily for those whose tastes incline more toward the epicurean——the next two generations of the family applied their talents to a different form of agriculture. After an extensive career in banking and media, Clarke Swanson Jr., grandson of Carl, founded Swanson Vineyards in Napa Valley in 1985. Like his grandfather’s company, the winery, whose vineyards comprise 140 acres, is a family concern: Clarke’s daughter, Alexis, the firm’s marketing director, has upheld the tradition of culinary innovation by offering oenophiles gourmet accompaniments with which to enjoy Swanson’s beautifully wrought wines. Her wild American caviar adds a briny counterpoint to a glass of crisp Pinot Grigio, while the Alexis Estate Bonbons——creamy dark-chocolate truffles dusted with a curry powder of star anise, cumin and cloves——are specifically created by Vosges Haut Chocolat of Chicago to accompany the winery’s proprietary blend, which Clarke named for his daughter.

The 2003 Alexis should not be missed, with or without the bonbons. Winemaker Chris Phelps has added Merlot and Syrah to Cabernet Sauvignon, lacing the deep blackberry fruit with an appealing smokiness and a creamy touch of coffee and cocoa. Elegant and delightfully textured, the 2003 vintage is a pleasingly versatile food wine——whether served with an entrecôte grillé, chocolate or, yes, even turkey.

Swanson Vineyards, 707-967-3500, swansonvineyards.com.

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Brett Anderson is senior vice president, editorial, for CurtCo Publishing.

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